The Maison imbues its iconic Perlée collection with dazzling gemstones to freshen its ring tones.

Within the poetic vision guiding the aesthetics and artistry of&nbsp;Van Cleef &amp; Arpels, the Perlée collection’s geometric lyricism&nbsp;is a pillar that stands alongside others revolving around nature,&nbsp;luck, couture, love and enchantment. Though it officially&nbsp;debuted in 2008, the collection’s soul — the perlage or golden&nbsp;bead — has been embedded in the Maison’s DNA since the&nbsp;1920s, originally appearing as a shimmering outline for precious&nbsp;stones or as a textured accent in Art Deco masterworks.
By the late 1940s, these luminous spheres stepped further&nbsp;into the light, evolving from a decorative border into a bold,&nbsp;tactile language of their own. They formed the framework&nbsp;of the Couscous collection, juxtaposing polished yellow gold&nbsp;beads with a supple Tubogas-style chain, along with precious&nbsp;stones and diamonds, in abstract pieces, such as the Couscous&nbsp;Bagatelle necklace (1949) in yellow gold and platinum, set&nbsp;with rubies, sapphires and diamonds.

Over the next decade, figurative designs, exemplified by&nbsp;charming animal clips, were embellished with the gilded&nbsp;beads. The 1960s witnessed the emergence of the Twist&nbsp;iterations, intertwined with coloured gemstones such as coral,&nbsp;lapis lazuli and turquoise, as well as cultured pearls, marking&nbsp;a predilection for volume and contrast. Taking a supporting&nbsp;role in 1968, the delicate spheres were enlisted to contour&nbsp;the Alhambra pieces, and following the renewed interest in&nbsp;geometry and abstraction in the 1980s, the golden beads came&nbsp;into their own, immortalised as the Perlée collection in 2008.

Twist ring, circa 1963 Yellow gold, coral, cultured pearls Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

Little Doe clip, 1956 Yellow gold, rubies Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

Twist bracelet, circa 1963 Yellow gold, coral, cultured pearls Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

From single to multiple rows, the collection’s iconic golden&nbsp;beads imbued Perlée creations with rounded volume. In 2026,&nbsp;this visual identity and design language is fortified with new&nbsp;rings in yellow, rose and white gold, accented with diamonds&nbsp;and coloured gemstones — perfect for layering and pairing.&nbsp;Referencing the sensibility of the Maison’s Perlée five-row rings&nbsp;of 2022, the novelties are structured from three rows of gold&nbsp;beads of varying sizes arranged in a harmonious graduation,&nbsp;from the largest at the top to the smallest at the underside.
Slicing across the yellow, white or rose gold spheres for&nbsp;the new Perlée rings is a diagonal line of nine round&nbsp;diamonds that meet the Maison’s exacting 4Cs criteria: D&nbsp;to F for colour and IF to VVS for clarity. An intricate nail&nbsp;setting is used to seamlessly join these two elements in&nbsp;a continuous line, revealing vivid reflections and sparkle&nbsp;as the hand moves. Three similar iterations replace the&nbsp;diamonds with sapphires and emeralds for the yellow gold&nbsp;setting, and with rubies for the rose gold setting. Only&nbsp;stones of intense hues and luminous material are selected&nbsp;by the Maison’s experts.

In crafting these yellow, rose or white gold spheres of varying&nbsp;diameters, the lost-wax casting technique is used, in which the&nbsp;jeweller carefully reworks them by shaping and calibrating to&nbsp;achieve a flawless roundness. Thereafter, stages of polishing&nbsp;unveil their distinct lustre while meticulous finishing reveals&nbsp;burnished brilliance at the crest of each bead.&nbsp;
For every jewellery creation, the craftsmanship and attention to detail beneath is purposed by the Maison to be as breathtaking as what sits on top — honeycomb openwork on the reverse paves the way for light to pass through the gemstones, elevating their fire, while nail setting provides security for their&nbsp;rounded tips to echo the Perlée aesthetic. Each nail can hold&nbsp;up to three adjacent stones, set directly against one another&nbsp;and exchanging their tonal quality for extra radiance. High&nbsp;Jewellery stone setters provide their expertise to complete the rings set with sapphires, emeralds or rubies.

Today, the Perlée collection continues this storied trajectory,&nbsp;transforming the Maison’s emblematic beaded signature into&nbsp;a contemporary icon of modularity. In its latest evolution, the&nbsp;collection balances heritage with a playful spirit, where mirror-polished gold beads dance alongside glimmering diamonds&nbsp;and coloured stones, fantastically fashioning the simplest of&nbsp;forms into an expanding universe of poetic geometry, unique&nbsp;savoir-faire and joyous light.

<h4 style="text-align: center;">Find out more on <a href="https://www.vancleefarpels.com/my/en/collections/jewelry/perlee.html?category=all" target="_blank" rel="noopener">vancleefarpels.com</a>.</h4>

Van Cleef & Arpels dials up the Perlée collection with new renditions

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