Matthieu Blazy loosens up the Maison&rsquo;s codes without losing their identity.&nbsp;

Inspired by Gabrielle Chanel&rsquo;s statement, &ldquo;Be a caterpillar by day and a butterfly by night,&rdquo; Matthieu Blazy goes back to one of the fashion powerhouse&rsquo;s most iconic notions, transformation, for Autumn/Winter 2026. The collection makes him think about how women&rsquo;s clothing changes throughout the day, in different places, and in various situations. He calls Chanel &ldquo;functional&rdquo; and &ldquo;fiction,&rdquo; &ldquo;sensible,&rdquo; and &ldquo;seductive&rdquo; in the show notes.

Blazy begins with the Maison&rsquo; foundations. Tweed, tailoring, and the Chanel suit set the tone, but he changes their mood with a lighter touch. Calling the suit the &ldquo;central canvas&rdquo;, it comes in ribbed knits, classic tweeds, and textiles woven with lurex, silicone, and natural gauze. Untucked shirts, loose cuts, and pressed-tweed blousons make things less structured while remaining comfortable.&nbsp;

Instead of settling into one period, the creative director lets the silhouettes travel across decades. From the 1920s to the 1930s, then from the 1950s to the 1960s, and finally back to the 1920s, it&rsquo;s presented&nbsp;in drop-waist proportions, flowing silk jersey, lengthy lines, and suits with a softer shape.&nbsp;

The mood changes from day to night as the collection goes on. Colours become richer, iridescence starts to show up, and shapes move more. Dresses with streamlined lines, lavish jewellery, and pastel second-skin boots create a more expressive mood. The bags, on the other hand, move between utility and ornament. Next to the &ldquo;extravagant pomegranate minaudiere&rdquo;, which adds a sharper touch of fantasy, is a suede flap bag that is based on Chanel&rsquo;s everyday norms.

Chanel's Autumn/Winter 2026 collection explores transformation

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